The Anyfish Anywhere 14′ GB FS Pro MK2 is a powerful upgrade to the original, purpose-built for anglers who demand strength, casting distance, and reliability in challenging conditions. Designed with a firmer tip and a steely backbone, this rod picks up leads quickly and effortlessly powers out heavier weights and bigger baits.

Designed specifically for fixed spool users, this 14-foot rod excels in long-range and rough-ground fishing scenarios—perfect for environments where a swinging cast and a long drop isn't always practical and a well timed overhead-thump excels. Even with its robust demeanour, the rod remains surprisingly light and well-balanced, making it comfortable to use for longer sessions. 

Optimised for casting 6oz leads with ease, it can handle up to 8oz when needed, maintaining impressive recovery. The carbon tip is sensitive enough to register subtle bites, while the overall power makes it suitable for tackling strong tides and rugged terrain, particularly on demanding coastlines like the Bristol Channel.

Features include:

• Fuji guides throughout for durability and smooth line flow
• Sliding reel seat fitting for personalised setup
• Supplied reducer to extend the rod length if desired

This is a specialist fixed spool beach rod engineered for serious anglers who fish regularly and want gear that performs at the highest level. It's not the cheapest option—but if you value quality and dependability, the GB FS Pro MK2 is worth every penny. If you are on a budget, I highly recommend the Anyfish Anywhere Six & Bait MkII 14F. This is a pocket friendly alternative that would ideally suit those new to the sport. Note that the F in that description refers to fixed spool. If you're an angler who prefers to use a multiplier reel, this is the model that you'll need. 

I’ve been using the predecessor to this model for around three years now and these are the reels that myself and my clients have given a good workout in that time. I honestly can’t fault these workhorses- everything is sublime. First off, they are incredibly smooth and full of torque on the retrieve. The 4.3:1 retrieve ratio is the perfect balance, offering speed and grunt for getting the gear back over the rough. 

The slow oscillation gets the line back on the spool as crisp and as accurately as it ever needs to be, so long casting, which is also aided by the spool’s shape, is another task that this model takes in its stride. The clutch is a joy to use, a slight turn of the drag knob can change it from fully locked to fully open, which is really useful when a bigger smoothhound decides it wants some line. When you pick one of these up though, it's the weight, or lack of it that really jumps out, a mere 505gm. 

A stated capacity of 330yds of 20lb mono means that the Power Aero holds more than enough line for all eventualities, including walk backs on the sandy beaches. Supplied with a spare spool (this is a must), you can be back up and running after a snap off within moments. The shape and overall feel of this reel exudes power and performance— it really is an absolute winner. Again, this is not a cheap option, but it’s a classic case of getting what you pay for. If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, several friends use the Penn Spinfisher VII 7500LCEU Long Cast. This model is a little heavier, but at half the price of the Shimano and just as capable (though perhaps without the bells and whistles), it will provide many years of solid use if cared for. 

When I first reverted back to fixed spool reels for the bulk of my shore fishing, I was curious about trying different lines, low diameter lines, smoother lines, something that would predominantly aid casting. I came across Ultra Cast and it’s fair to say I was bowled over from the off. I’ve seen many different supposed low diameter to breaking strain ratio lines over the years and in all fairness I wasn’t impressed. Yes they are thin, but they didn’t break at anywhere near their stated point, and knot strength was awful. This stuff from Asso is on another level though. First off, it’s got a fluorocarbon coating, which let's face it, in terms of visibility, is not going to make a single bit of difference here in the muddy Bristol Channel. But what that does mean, is that the line is incredibly slick, so friction is reduced on the cast and the line pours effortlessly off of the reel. On the subject of visibility, this stuff shows up so well in the dark, a real added bonus. Tying a spider hitch leader knot in the 20lb breaking strain makes for an absolutely solid connection to a tapered leader and you’ll struggle to break it with your hands. Despite its reduced diameter, at a mere 0.36mm (20lb breaking strain) it deals with the knocks and bangs over the rough without issue. The biggest test I gave this line was pulling an eel estimated at around 30lb from two snags over some nasty ground a couple of years back; the eel was lost in the edge, but through no fault of this incredible line. The link below will take you to a half kilo spool, which ultimately works out cheaper, but a 4oz spool is also available. 

Tapered shock leaders are a must for fixed spool users, especially when using these finer lines. A bulky shock leader knot can allow for the leader to ‘trip’ on it as it leaves the spool on the cast, often resulting in a crack off. A tapered leader greatly reduces the chances of that happening. The bottom line is that the leader knot has to be small, and that’s why tapered leaders work so well on these reels. Tapered shock leaders are nothing new, but to the best of my knowledge, the Seadra Tough Taper Tapered Shock Leader is the first I have seen which boasts a diameter and breaking strain that truly lends itself to fishing over rough ground. Alongside other more regular breaking strains, Seadra offer a 0.43mm - 0.90mm variant (25 - 100lb) which is perfectly suited to our fishing here. That thick end gets a lot of abuse and is often dragged across rough reef surfaces, through barnacle encrusted rocks and mud. It needs to deal with a lot. My preference is to cut the thin end back a little, so that there’s a little extra meat to tie the mainline on to, but at 13m in total length, this is no problem. Available in clear or yellow, these are the go-to for my Bristol Channel Fishing. 

As I demonstrate to everyone who joins me on a guided session, making the most of your time by the water will maximise your chances of catching. By this, I mean making sure that you have a spare rig baited up and ready to go, hanging on the tripod, that is then clipped on to the end of the shock leader. Quick connection clips on the end of the shock leader are nothing new, but I’d urge everyone to be doing this. If it takes someone who is new to fishing five minutes to bait up a rig, and they have ten casts in a session, that’s fifty minutes without even having a line in the water. Wasted fishing time! I’ve tried a lot of these clips and in all honesty it’s not like they have to fulfil a huge task, but they are important and there are lots of good ones on the market. Ive settled on the Trident Terma Link for now, for more than a couple of reasons. First off, it is incredibly simple. Pop your rig swivel in to the gap, pull, and it’s connected. It’s strong— I’ve yet to see one fail on the cast. The opening is concealed, so it wont pick up line snags on the retrieve either. It’s also a really neat shape that fits through the guides when setting up without any hassle whatsoever. What I really like about this white clip though, is that it stands out a mile for what it is and it’s easy to identify in a small box of metal wear. They say it’s the little things that matter, and I think this one is utterly brilliant. 

Okay, so it's a swivel, we know what they do and what they are for. But aren't they all the same? No. These Seadra X3 Crane Swivels are nothing short of fantastic and easily the best swivels I have ever used. For the last four years, they are all I have used for my rig building. If you’ve come on a guided session with me, you’d have seen my pulley rigs tied with these. The size 3 is incredibly strong for its size, 225lb in actual fact, making it, if anything, too strong. But it’s as compact as you need a swivel to be, meaning its aerodynamic on the cast and less likely to find a snag over the rough. These swivels are constructed with 316 marine grade stainless steel, meaning they will last and last, if given just a little care. If you’re fishing over clean ground and rarely lose tackle, you can chop up your rigs and use these again, confident in the knowledge that they will be just as strong and reliable as when they first came out of the pack. There are no less than 9 sizes available, though I probably use three or four on my rigs. A size 3 is great as a pulley swivel, used in conjunction with a 0.90mm or thicker diameter rig body, this wont pull through on the cast. The size 4 makes a great snood swivel on a lighter pulley and the size 8 is perfect for droppers on a multi hook clipped down rig. 

I have long been a fan of Varivas hooks, and in more recent times, Seadra hooks too. Both brands offer an exceptional range of quality, chemically sharpened hooks that get the job done and get it done well. The Varivas Big Mouth and Varivas Big Mouth Xtra patterns are fantastic wide gape patterns, best used with fish baits for larger species. With the advent of the dongle, my preference is now geared more towards the Varivas Full Circle hook for species like rays, bass and smoothhounds, but for me, when targeting species such as conger, I still believe the traditional Varivas Big Mouth Xtra J hook takes some beating. Another wide gape winner for these bigger baits is the Seadra SSWG— a new pattern, but super wide and as devilishly sharp as it needs to be. When it comes to tackling the smaller species, like flatfish, you can’t go wrong with the Varivas Aberdeen. It’s one of the sharpest small hooks I've seen, yet the gauge remains sensible enough to hang on to a proper fish, should you get lucky. 

A bait clip is one of the most important things you can add to a rig. When used correctly, they make a rig aerodynamic and cast friendly, but equally as important, they protect the bait in flight and prevent G-force tearing the bait away from the hook. These Gemini Splash Down Solo Bait Clips are easily the best I have found to date and are extremely user friendly, especially for new anglers who are trying to get their heads around everything. The disk mechanism is pulled down, shielding the baited hook and keeping it locked solidly in place throughout the cast, but upon impact with the water at the end of the cast, the disk pops up, ejecting the baited hook and leaving it to do its business. Keeping the clipped down hook captive throughout is of huge importance, as a clip that prematurely ejects at some random stage of the cast, or the leads flight, will see bait potentially come flying off the hook and casting yards lost. I now use these on all of my fishing rigs, with the exception of flapper style rigs that are designed to be cast closer in. 

There are dozens of different lines on the market that can be used to make rigs. They seem to pop up all the time, but some of my favourites are those that I have been using for many years. It’s important to match the snood to the target species, but also the hook size. You wouldn’t fish a size 2 Aberdeen hook on a 100lb trace line, and equally you wouldn’t tie an 8/0 Varivas Big Mouth Xtra to a 20lb trace line. If you’ve been on a guided session with me and seen the pulley rigs I use, you’d note that they are tied with robust components throughout, and that includes the trace line (the part the hook(s) is connected to). For my dongle rigs carrying a 4/0 Varivas Full Circle hook, I’ll use the tried and tested Varivas Shock/Rig Nylon in the 80lb breaking strain. As the name suggests, if you're a multiplier reel user, this stuff also makes for an excellent shock leader. If I’m using J hooks such as the Varivas Big Mouth Xtra in a 4/0 - 6/0 size, I'll be rigging them to either the Varivas Shock/Rig or Asso Classic in the 100lb breaking strain. These heavier, thicker trace lines take a lot of abuse but have yet to let me down. They create a ‘boom’ effect on the pulley rig too, ensuring the hooks and trace stand away from the body. 

If I’m going lighter with the hooks and targeting smaller species with more than one hook, in the case of a flapper rig or multi-hook clip-down, then it’s Amnesia all the way. I use this brilliant memory free option in either 20, 25 or 30lb breaking strains, depending on the size of the hooks and what the target species might be. The beauty of this stuff is that if a fish ever kinks or tangles it, a good stretch will remove 90% of this superficial damage. 

A solid rod rest is another essential piece of kit that you can’t be without. A tripod is the go-to option and there are many available now. In my opinion, it’s not something that needs to be over-complicated and you want to be able to put it up and take it down without too much faff. For a long time now, I’ve used the Ian Golds range of tripods, they are super stable, user friendly and light to carry. The Ian Golds 7′ Super-Match DB1 is my go-to and at 7’ it provides more than adequate support for my 14’ rods. It comes supplied with a trace bar and leg lock kit, as well as numerous other neat accessories. It’s rare that I use the Leg Lock and Trace Bar supplied, but the leg lock in particular can be useful on a really windy day. I have upgraded the head rod holders to the Spooligan Grippa models, I find these will keep the rods firmly in place and because of the shape of the head bar on this tripod, it’s easy to slide on additional heads. I’ve now got four in place and I can’t think of an occasion when I’d actually be using four rods, but with three it looked a little odd. 

I actually like the fact that this tripod doesn’t come with a bag like some. Bags are just another thing to carry to the beach and potentially get plastered in mud and sand which will make its way back to the van. For me, a rod rest should be stable, easy to put up and take down, support the rods and allow for a rig or two to be hung from it in between casts— it really is that simple. 

I’ve been using the Seadra 8L Bait Cool Box for a good couple of years now, and it’s easily one of the most reliable bits of kit I own. If you're serious about keeping your bait in top condition during a session, especially on the shore, this box is well worth a look. It’s also incredibly cheap for what it is. 

I mainly use mine for frozen baits like bluey, squid, mackerel, and crab. The 8-litre capacity is deceptively spacious, and I can load it with more than enough bait for a full session. What I really rate about it is how well it holds the cold. Even on warmer days or when I’ve taken more bait than I need for a guided session, I know that as long as I keep the lid closed, the contents will stay frozen for hours and can be returned to the freezer later. The rubber seal and sturdy latch do a great job of keeping warm air out, and the internal insulation is clearly up to the task.

After two years of hard use along the coast, mine’s looking a bit rough around the edges—the sticker’s long since peeled off (they are now printed)—but functionally, it’s still spot on. The tough moulded plastic makes it really durable and easy to wipe down at the end of a messy session, inside and out. The lid opens fully on strong hinges and the built-in tray is ideal for stashing bait elastic, scissors, or even prepped baits.

It’s a simple, well-thought-out bit of gear that just does its job without fuss. For shore or boat anglers who want to keep their bait frozen and fresh, the Seadra 8L Cool Box is a solid investment—and one I’m more than happy to recommend from experience.

I’ve been using the Daiwa D-VEC Large Seat Box with the Breakaway SB1 Conversion for a long time now, and it’s become an essential part of my shore fishing setup. Unless I’m covering serious ground on foot—where I’ll switch to a rucksack—this box goes with me on every session. It’s tough, dependable, and has the space I need for everything the day might throw at me during a guided session.

One of the standout features is the Breakaway SB1 Conversion, which turns this seat box into something far more comfortable and practical. For anyone with a bad back like me, it’s an absolute must. The harness and adjustable backrest let you carry the box like a rucksack, distributing the weight more evenly thanks to the built-in lumbar support. Once you're at the mark, it also gives you a solid and comfortable backrest to lean on—hugely welcome on long sessions.

I much prefer the larger seat boxes like this one. Smaller boxes often mean you’re constantly unloading gear to reach something at the bottom. With this size, I can fit everything I need—from spare clothing and a large flask of tea to bait, rig wallets, and a full first aid kit, which is just as important on a guided session as any rod or reel.

It also takes the punishment of coastal fishing in its stride. After a muddy, messy day, I can simply hose it down, and it's good to go again.

The double catch lid, included cushion, and overall durability make this a rock-solid choice for any serious shore angler. If you're looking for something reliable, spacious, and easy on the back, this combo is hard to beat. I wouldn’t be without mine.

I’ve been using this Fenix HP35R headlamp for over a year now, and it’s still performing just as well as the day I unboxed it. It’s been through all kinds of conditions—cold, rain, salt spray, and mud—and it has never let me down. The battery life is outstanding; I’ve never had to worry about it running out on a long session. Even after regular use, the charge still holds impressively well.

One of the things I really love is the warm white light from the main beam. There’s something nostalgic about it—reminds me of fishing years ago when things felt simpler (and the fish were more plentiful!). It gives a comforting tone that’s easy on the eyes while still being incredibly effective.

And when I need serious visibility, this lamp delivers in spades. At 3000 lumens on the main beam and up to 4000 lumens combined, it turns night into day. I honestly don’t think a lamp can be too bright—especially when safety is a concern. Being able to light up the sea in front of me gives peace of mind, particularly in rough conditions or unfamiliar marks.

Comfort-wise, it's top drawer. The headband hasn’t lost any elasticity, which is a problem I’ve had with other models in the past. It’s also easy to hose down after a muddy session, and it always comes back looking and performing like new. For reliability, power, and build quality, the HP35R is a headlamp I’d highly recommend—it’s become a permanent part of my kit. Admittedly, some might balk at the price. I personally feel that this is an important piece of safety kit and that’s one area I don’t want to compromise on. That said, I do also carry a backup- the Fenix HP25R v2.0

Fishing in the Bristol Channel needs some thought, especially with species that feed primarily by scent rather than sight. This makes bait presentation absolutely critical—not just in terms of smell, but also aerodynamics and durability when casting. Over the years, I’ve experimented with all sorts of baiting tools, both shop-bought and homemade. These days, there are a few essentials I won’t be without, all of which live in my seat box. First on the list is a solid pair of bait scissors. I use the Seadra Super Bait Scissors—they’re sharp, durable, and perfect for cutting through crab, squid, and fish with ease. I’ve used plenty over the years, but these are easily the best I’ve come across. The next tool I rely on heavily is the VMO Multi Bait Tool. It’s like having an extra pair of hands when prepping multiple baits or building up a cocktail. It keeps everything aligned perfectly so you can whip the bait neatly before casting. Alongside that, I also use the VMO Shepherd’s Crook—a simple but effective piece of kit. I often prep a few baits in advance with this during busy sessions. A small, sharp knife is another must-have. I carry the Tronixpro 4” Bait Knife, which is incredibly sharp and surprisingly cheap. I’ll happily replace it every few months once the edge starts to dull—at that price, it’s a no-brainer. For bait elastic, I’ve moved on from the cheaper options and now use VMO Super Latex Bait Elastic. The Light grade is my go-to for most baiting situations: it’s strong, super fine, and almost invisible once wrapped, which keeps the bait looking natural. Not that it’s an issue in the poor visibility here, but I still like a bait to look neat. Storage is important too, especially when you’re juggling swivels, clips, and beads— all stuff that you might need one day. I use the Seadra Terminal Bits Box—it’s incredibly compact, but you’d be surprised how much it can hold. It’s saved my session more than once when I’ve needed a quick replacement hook. For unhooking, your tools should match your hook choice. I use the Seadra Push-Pull Hook Remover for J hooks; it lets the fish’s weight do the work, which is a lot safer and quicker once you learn the knack. For circle hooks, a long nose pair of pliers does the job better than a T-bar, and I rate the Berkley 11” XCD Long Reach Pliers highly—they’ve been solid so far. I couldn’t be without a few baiting needles too, they’re great for teaching how to put worms on a small Aberdeen hook. The Seadra Domed Baiting Needle is nice and light, the point is not stupidly sharp either, which means worms can be threaded on without fear of bursting. Last but not least is a tiny item I use almost every session: the Seadra Knot Pulling Tool. It’s cheap, compact, and brilliant for cinching down knots when working with heavier mono. All of these tools make baiting up, unhooking, and rig prep more efficient—and they’ve become part of my routine. If you fish regularly, having the right tools from the start will save you time, establish a routine, and ultimately help you catch more fish.